1.Under the Sea
與海洋有關的事物,將會以不同形式如印花、釘珠或海洋生物的形態等在來季時裝出現,締造一段深海奇緣。像 Chanel 那閃亮如貝殼的連身裙及貝殼形手提包,Giorgio Armani 摹倣貝母光澤的亮面條子套裝, Givenchy 的魚尾形衣襬,以及 Alexander McQueen 像深海鬼魅一樣的豐富線條剪裁等。設計師彷彿透過各種不同的海洋風格,為夏日降溫。
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Givenchy── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Alexander McQueen── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Chanel── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
2. Sports Chic
運動元素曾以較內斂沉寂的方式展現,而在來季它可說是完全地回歸時裝界。Versus 的流蘇連身裙與 Stella McCartney 的網紋布料連身裙,同樣展現運動女郎般的活力,Lacoste 透過色彩拼貼重新演繹其經典運動風格,Alexander Wang 恍如將潛水衣直接當休閒服來穿著,而 Marc Jacobs 則將運動外套配搭優雅的縐褶半截裙,證明運動風格亦具備配搭的可塑性。
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Alexander Wang── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Stella McCartney── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
3. Sculptural White
雖說白色其實從沒離開過時尚圈,但來季的純白色造型,卻因配搭線條較中性化而硬朗的立體剪裁而帶來了驚喜。例如 Céline 的立體袖子連身裙,以及五十年代剪裁外套,Lanvin 的墊膊上衣拼闊腳長褲流露中性型格氣息,而 Jean Paul Gaultier 的背心外套與半截傘裙則營造出剛柔並重的風情。
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Céline── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Gianfranco Ferré── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Jean Paul Gaultier── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Dries Van Noten── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
4. Aqua Power
每年春夏,甜美的粉色系都順理成章成為了設計師們的寵兒,而在來季帶點溫婉恬靜氣息的湖水綠色,卻不約而同地出現於不同風格的品牌當中。無論是 Versus 及 Marc Jacobs 的運動健兒造型,或Max Mara 以繭型連身裙所打造的女性化味道,還是 Prada 乘着香車的美人兒,好像將不同女人的特質都投影到最新時尚裏。
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Prada── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Max Mara── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Diane Prada von Furstenberg── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Versace── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
5. Pleasant Pleats
去年春夏具少女味的荷葉邊元素成功打進高級時裝,來季則輪到書卷味濃的百褶裙。雖然部分設計如 Chloé 的太陽射線式連身裙或 Haider Ackermann 的銀色晚裝裙,仍保留了簡約剪裁的痕迹,然而仍有不少作品走色彩繽紛且活潑青春的路線,例如 Blumarine 的熱帶風情圖案連身裙,以及 Roberto Cavalli 的黑色閃片拼彩色印花百褶短裙等,洋溢一片活潑氣息。
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Chloé── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Céline── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Blumarine── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Haider Ackermann── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
6. Maxi Volume
具分量感的蓬蓬裙不只是《Mad Man》時代的產物,在來年春夏設計師將他們幻化成各種形狀,展現出各種全新面貌。部分設計師喜歡以色彩甜美的造型配襯蓬蓬裙,例如 Louis Vuitton 的粉綠色蓬蓬裙造型, 而 Dolce & Gabbana 更想到將裙襬變成放滿蔬菜印花的餐桌一樣;另一邊廂,沉穩簡約的黑白色調配搭半截長裙剪裁,則增強了整體視覺效果,各具特色。
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Dolce & Gabbana── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Louis Vuitton── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Jean Paul Gaultier── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Burberry Prorsum── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
7. Love the Lingerie
內衣外穿的潮流將會延續至來年春夏,並成為了印花圖案的最佳拍檔。例如 Missoni 的民族印花 bra top 連半截裙,或是 N° 21 的格子圖案 bra top 拼黑色喱士半截裙等。若初嘗這種打扮,亦可參照如Miu Miu 一樣配襯小披肩的示範,也許能找到轉變一下造型的靈感。
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Antonio Marras── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Jean Paul Gaultier── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
8. Hip Parade
無論誇張或內斂,誘惑的腰間荷葉邊(peplum) 造型,於來季春夏時裝展滿目皆是,為最新造型增添些許動感之餘,更突顯女性曲線。例如 Givenchy 像美人魚般的荷葉邊拼貼身半截裙,Francesco Scognamiglio 如雙層裙襬般的白色喱士造型,或是 Dries Van Noten 低調的黑色夜空圖案半截長裙,充滿媚態。
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Alexander McQueen── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Francesco Scognamiglio── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
9.Geometric Theory
差不多每年春夏皆為花朵圖案的天下,但來季卻增加了不少色彩奪目的幾何圖案造型。例如 Yves Saint Laurent 的經典懷舊印花大衣, Marni 於簡約線條的娃娃裙上飾以大型紫色圓點圖案,而Carven 則以彩色螢光 zigzag 圖案透過不同大小比例與方向排列,讓印花圖案變得更 edgy。
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Carven── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Yves Saint Laurent── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
10. Floral Fantasy
為了追求視覺上的層次感,來年春夏設計師們從花朵圖案轉而採用立體花飾,散發華麗夢幻氛圍。例如 Louis Vuitton 大小、顏色不一的鑲水晶花飾, Blumarine 的密鋪閃片花飾,或是 Dolce & Gabbana 以白花修飾小黑裙等,其甜美氣息足以令人一見就綻放微笑。
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Blumarine── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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Dolce & Gabbana── Spring / Summer 2012 Fashion Week
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