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Hermès── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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D & G── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Just Cavalli── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Gucci── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#1:The 70’s Glam
今季春夏 70 年代時尚風已經復甦,在 ’08 秋冬將更如火如荼,除了承接春夏季度的嬉皮士風格(Hippy Style)外,當時的典雅淑女裝束及 Annie Hall 的中性化打扮俱成為創意靈感泉源。而無論是從哪一方面取材,均以高級華麗的手法演繹,用上名貴面料,像真絲、絲絨、雪紡、皮草等等,並且配合閃爍的亮片、金色、繁豐的圖案和細節設計、以及張揚的配飾。
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Dsquared 2── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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DAKS── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Burberry Prorsum── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Prada── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#2:Less is More
雖然 glamour look 在 ’08 秋冬來勢洶洶,但另方面簡約主義(Minimalism)的設計也靜靜起革命,對鋒頭凌厲的 Maximalism 作出一點平衡,代表作是 Prada 的簡約主義設計,純淨的肉色衣裙,不賣弄任何花巧,只光靠剪裁技術、質料的對比和組合、以及顏色的運用去製造出恍如人體第二層皮膚的衣服,一樣美得冒泡。
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Etro── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Sonia Rykiel── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Emporio Armani── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Moschino Cheap & Chic── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#3:Androgyny
注意!這不是女生扮男生!雖然春夏季已流行男性化的著裝,包括西裝外套等單品,但’08 秋冬新一波時尚強調的是雌雄同體 ( Androgyny ),在衣服搭配或整體造形上將女性化與男性化的元素結合,例如:雪紡荷葉邊或蝴蝶結襯衫搭 配男性化的西裝,又或一身中性化的装束卻配以女性化的髮型和艷麗的化妝, 以達致焉能辨我是雄雌的效果。
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Alexander McQueen── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Yves Saint Laurent── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Lanvin── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Emporio Armani── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#4:Exaggerated Volume
不管是高貴典雅或前衞風格的設計師,在 ’08 秋冬均愛玩味誇張的衣服輪廓,涵括的範圍由衫身、裙襬、衣領以至袖子;靈感泉源亦由維多利亞時期風格的鐘形裙襬、復古的泡泡袖以至 1980 年代日本風格的 oversize 剪裁等等,均強調龐然的體積。
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Yves Saint Laurent── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Prada── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Louis Vuttion── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Dolce & Gabbana── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#5:Dropping Down
時裝史上有這樣的一個理論:當全球經濟飆升的時候,女性的裙襬長度也會上升;相反女性的裙襬長度則會下降。 流行多時的迷你裙,在 ’08 秋冬巴黎和米蘭時裝周終於出現勁敵,由及膝以至 mid-calf 長度的裙子成為了炙手可熱的時 尚新寵兒,連一向走性感女神路線的Dolce & Gabbana 也轉向內斂,裙襬統統往下移,這反映了什麼?
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DAKS── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Just Cavalli── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Blumarine── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Blumarine── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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D & G── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Burberry Prorsum── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#6:Warm Brown
在 ’08 秋冬時裝周裏,深深淺淺不同色澤的啡褐色,包括由深朱古力啡、栗子啡以至奶茶色,成為了流行的大熱色澤,為下一季秋冬送來溫暖,令人可以在流行多時的烏鴉黑以外,增添了另一個時尚選擇。
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Christian Dior── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Sonia Rykiel── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Gianni Versace── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Marni── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#7: Charming Pink
色彩也是 ’08 秋冬女裝時尚所強調的,琳瑯滿目繽紛的色彩,最矚目的是粉紅色,深深淺淺,由嬌艷的桃紅色(Shocking Pink)以至粉嫩的三文魚肉色(salmon pink)。而Christian Dior 的 ’08 秋冬系列更彷彿向不同的粉紅色致敬。
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Gucci
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Ann Demeulemeester
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Celine
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Fendi
#8:Shaggy Fur
雖然環保的聲音不絕於耳,但皮草卻是永恆不滅的經典單品,近年還成為時尚的代名詞。在 ’08 秋冬時裝周,皮草更來勢洶洶,由超級名牌以至前衞設計師品牌,如 Ann Demeulemesster,也一 致落力鼓吹;同時款式紛陳,由大衣、外套以至披肩等等,並且 強調毛茸茸蓬鬆的質感,當中不乏帶着一種大自然野生動物的靈感。
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Givenchy── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Blumarine── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Moschino── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Chanel── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#9:Artsy Ruffles
荷葉邊(Ruffles)和縐褶(Pleats)在近年已成為女裝不可欠缺的流行設計元素,’08 秋冬女裝也不例外,並且 將Ruffles and Pleats 處理得像衣服上的藝術裝飾品,既有活靈活現的玫瑰花朶縐褶裝飾,也有天馬行空的抽象意念,不管是哪,始終帶着一點浮華的味道,與 ’08 秋冬女裝時尚強調華麗感一脈相承。
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Dolce & Gabbana── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Dolce & Gabbana── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Hermés── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Celine── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#10:Shoulder Bag & Messenger Bag
隨着 70 年代風尚燃燒得熾熱,連帶 ’08 秋冬手袋也傾向從 70 年代擷取靈感,長肩帶配合懷舊皮革的款式。此外,書包型的手袋也是大熱,連 Hermès 的經典 Birkin 袋也變奏為長肩帶書包型,充滿型格。
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Dolce & Gabbana── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Christian Dior── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Prada── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
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Louis Vuttion── Autumn / Winter 2008 Fashion Week
#11:Mannish Shoes & Thick Heels
在 ’08 秋冬巴黎和米蘭時裝周,最新湧現的是男裝款的綁帶鞋,與雌雄莫辨的中性化熱潮不無關係。此外,粗高跟鞋和帶雕塑形態的鞋跟依然是大熱,最絕妙的是 Louis Vuitton 以似分還合的手法將粗高跟與楔底鞋(Wedges)融為一 體,充滿趣味性。
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