2022 秋冬米蘭男裝周正在進行中,在過去兩天,實體時裝騷的發佈與線上形式結合,各大時裝品牌帶來新一季的時裝創意。來一起重溫當中幾場令人印象深刻的時裝發佈!
ZEGNA
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本季從傳統正裝進行重塑,兼具實用與個性、舒適的設計為男士打造不同的衣櫥精品。多層次的疊搭、設計與功能的平衡,是這季設計主題的重點。強調了休閒與當代的風格,廓形大褸搭配高科技面料內襯、精緻皮革與羊絨拼接的恤衫、工裝外套、PARKA、衛衣和針織衫等設計,配搭靈活而不拘一格;柔和的色調如鹽白色、岩灰色等與品牌經典的駱馬紅棕色、黃銅色協調呈現,新的品牌標識、拼貼圖案、條紋裝飾的細節,精緻而不落俗套。配上俐落剪裁和寬鬆飄逸感,沒有固定規律可循,可以不斷轉換,帶來一衣可多穿的隨性風格,這幾乎是男士們的夢想衣櫥!
FENDI
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由SILVIA VENTURINI FENDI打造的秋冬2022男裝系列,簡約俐落的剪裁帶來新的風格,這一季運用3D珍珠和鑽石數字印花以及全新O’LOCK鏈條圖案貫穿設計,呈現鮮明的設計語言。既有傳統的面料,西裝、針織及皮革展現高級剪裁線條,也有前衛廓形的孔洞針織,成為亮點。建築感的PEEKABOO FFORTY8 手提袋、微型BAGUETTE手袋硬件錢包、剪羊毛花卉胸針等配飾,以及放大的品牌標誌性圖案壓紋行李箱,極致的設計細節,更具玩味。當中以白襪或絲襪襯紳士經典款式鞋履的造型,注入了有趣的巧思,給人簇新的質感,亦會是啟發男士衣櫥靈感的點睛之筆。
PRADA
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隨著80年代樂隊 THE HUMAN LEAGUE的《MORALE…YOU’VE LOST THAT LOVING FEELING》音樂響起,模特兒從如同太空艙的發光裝置中步出,打頭陣的是老牌演員KYLE MACLACHLAN,參與行騷的還有ASA BUTTERFIELD、THOMAS BRODIE-SANGSTER,而另一著名演員 JEFF GOLDBLUM 負責閉場,這個CASTING可以說星光熠熠。MIUCCIA PRADA與RAF SIMONS共同呈現了這個秋冬男裝系列,超大廓形大褸是SIGNATURE,拼接了人造皮草細節,這一點顯示了PRADA女士的獨特品味。西裝、經典的尼龍材質連體衣在充滿藝術感的印花和色彩中,非常顯眼。兩位設計師的合作有種獨特魅力,在這個系列,先鋒感與復古氣息撲面而來,風格強烈而又充滿個性,結合模特兒的人選,無疑是一場GOOD SHOW!
JW ANDERSON
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這季的男裝系列和女裝早秋系列一起發佈,品牌取消了實體騷,改以線上的形式進行。設計師JONATHAN ANDERSON在這個系列創造了一個夢幻的時裝派對,以居家生活為靈感,模糊性別界限,以趣味性的設計和造型回應當下現實。年輕的模特兒們身披羊皮大褸襯牛仔褲,設計中可見各種皮革扭結、針織鏈條以及鏤空的細節,裝飾了呼啦圈元素的POLO、鴿子和大象造型的手袋、KINDERGARTEN鞋履,帶來奇異獨特的構思。有趣而荒誕的設計概念,為這場派對增添奇幻感。誰說無法出門狂歡時,在家裡就要穿得乖乖的?
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